The days are getting shorter, the evenings cooler, and at some point, the last bottle of rosé disappears from the fridge. Autumn is here – and with it, for many, the return of classic red wine season. Yet red wine hasn't had it easy lately. For years, we have been reading about declining wine consumption, a generation that drinks less alcohol, and the fact that red wine in particular is losing ground. Global wine consumption is indeed in decline. However, if one looks more closely at the domestic market, the devil is once again being painted on the wall larger than the wall actually is.
new lifestyle habits play a role, as does a shift towards white wine.
But perhaps red wine also has a small image problem? Over the past few decades, the trend favored powerful cuvées, plenty of oak, and a fair amount of alcohol. 14% ABV and more, combined with extraction and barrique – light, fresh, and lively red wine was not always on the menu. Precisely this style no longer fits the image for many people today.
Yet red wine can be completely different. With their elegance, Pinot Noir and St. Laurent could hit the pulse of the times perfectly. And then, of course, there is Blaufränkisch. Not always the "Prince Charming" among grape varieties, with its lively acidity and sometimes edgy tannins. At the same time, there is probably more good Blaufränkisch than ever before. If Austria has a true identity for red wine, then it must surely be Blaufränkisch. The German wine influencer Louisa Maria Schmidt (Instagram: bringflavorhome) once phrased it beautifully: "Blaufränkisch doesn't make you tired!"
And that is exactly the point. Diverse grape varieties such as Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, St. Laurent, and indeed Blaufränkisch show how light-footed red wine can be. Gentle extraction, moderate alcohol, fine tannins, and vibrant acidity ensure that a wine is not cloying, but rather leaves you wanting the next sip. Today, good winemakers are increasingly focusing on gentle vinification and elegance instead of sheer power. Origin, fruit, and balance should determine quality – not wood and extraction.
And then there is one persistent misunderstanding: that red wine should be drunk at room temperature. That has long been a thing of the past in the wine scene. Very few red wines taste truly good at 23 or 24 degrees. Lighter examples, in particular, benefit enormously from being served a bit cooler. 14 to 16 degrees are a good starting point for Pinot Noir, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, or Blaufränkisch. When in doubt, put the bottle in the fridge for 20 to 30 minutes. The fruit becomes more precise, the wine juicier, and the alcohol fades into the background.
Perhaps declining wine consumption is not just bad news, then. Nobody needs to return to the times when wine was consumed in large quantities and of questionable quality. Drink less, but better and more consciously – that is the much more agreeable motto. Red wine has much more to offer than overwhelming power, oak notes like entering a carpentry shop, and that warming, burning sensation of too much alcohol.
Autumn is the perfect opportunity to try this out: Pinot Noir with mushrooms, Langhe Nebbiolo with a snack, or a slightly chilled Blaufränkisch with venison. Culinary and wine-wise, we have a wonderful season ahead of us. And for those who would like to stock up their cellar for it – we have everything in stock that a wine lover's heart desires – here are three suggestions:
Georg Prieler – Blaufränkisch Ried Pratschweingarten 2022 | € 32.–
Warm winds from Lake Neusiedl meet cool limestone soil here. Dark berries, plum, pepper, and fine spice. Powerful yet elegant, with great structure and length. Excellent with red deer and venison, but also with pumpkin and mushrooms.
Domaine Rapet Père et Fils – Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses 2024 | € 59.–
Elegant Premier Cru from Burgundy: red cherries and raspberries, fine spice, and earthy notes. Lively acidity, silky tannins, and a long, harmonious finish. Pinot Noir with finesse and depth – perfect with veal cheeks or a classic Bœuf bourguignon.
L. Pira – Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2024 | € 23.–
Typically garnet red, with bright berries, spices, forest floor, a hint of leather, and earthy spice. Grippy tannins, refreshing acidity, and a juicy, drinkable finish. Traditional and timeless. Serve with tajarin and fresh truffles – or actually almost anything that comes from the forest and the kitchen in autumn.
This blog also appears as an article in the on-board magazine "Pause" of Peoples Airline - naturally in the Autumn 2026 issue :)
